Simple DIY wooden shed plans

In addition to serving a strictly utilitarian purpose, a garden shed may also serve as the main point of design for your yard or garden. You may construct a simple shed with the aid of these designs, but don’t stop there! You may utilize part of the shed for a chicken coop or rabbit hutch, build a hybrid toolshed and greenhouse, or add a martin house on top. If you’re feeling very daring, you may construct a living roof out of succulent plants or moss.

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Construct the Floor

The ideal location for a shed in your yard or garden is somewhere flat and well-drained, adjacent to your work area. The foundation design in the blueprints allows for changes to make the floor level, therefore the location need not be exactly flat. It is sufficient to have a top-of-soil foundation for small shelters, even in areas where winter temperatures drop below zero. For this, precast concrete deck blocks are ideal.

You will need a deck block at each corner, two additional blocks evenly distributed along the eight-foot sides, and one in the center of each six-foot side if you want to do away with the requirement for any form of floor beams. Consider placing three deck blocks, rather than two, between each corner on the eight-foot walls if you want to store really heavy things.

A center pocket on deck blocks is designed to accommodate the usual 4-by-4 vertical posts that support a deck. Similar in function, pressure-treated 4-by-4s in this shed are just short enough to make up for any variations in the ground’s shape (according to the designs).

As indicated by the drawings, begin by placing deck blocks on the ground. You should make the ground about level where each block will sit, but it doesn’t have to be exactly level. To arrange the blocks in a straight line, temporarily insert some straight 2-by-6 timber on the edge in the top grooves of the blocks. To build both long walls, arrange two rows of four blocks parallel to one another. Then, measure diagonally across the outside corners to get the arrangement’s squareness. Every corner will be 90 degrees if the two long walls are parallel and the diagonal measures across the corners are equal. Once the 8-foot walls have been aligned and squared, complete the installation by centering one deck block on each of the six-foot walls.

Take out the 2-by-6 lumber guides and insert a 12-inch length of 4-by-4 lumber vertically into the center recess of each deck block. Right now, these 4-by-4s will be a tad too lengthy, but that’s just what you want.

Tight to the outside faces of the 4-by-4 pillars, the 2-by-6s that make up the floor frame’s outer perimeter sit on the deck blocks’ outside top edge. To find the tallest deck block within the group, use an 8-foot 2-by-6 and a 4-foot level. This will serve as your starting point for building the floor structure. Raise the other end of the 2-by-6 so that it is level before securing the other end of the 2-by-6 to its 4-by-4 using a single galvanized 3-1/2-inch deck screw on the uppermost deck block. The 2-by-6 should rest on at least one block, if not all of them. Work in this manner around the whole floor frame until all of the perimeter 2-by-6s are in the same plane of elevation. Using a chainsaw or reciprocating saw, trim any extra 4-by-4s so that they are flush with the top of the 2-by-6s. Next, install 2-by-6 floor joists between the two 8-foot walls. After ensuring that every joist fits snugly within the floor frame’s outside corners, screw the joists to the 4-by-4s’ side.

After inserting three 3-1/2-inch deck screws into each joint to finish the floor frame, create custom-cut spacers out of construction timber that is 1-1/2 inches thick to cover the space between the top of the deck blocks and the underside of the 2-by-6s. The floor structure cannot be sustained over time by screws alone. Place a five-eighths-inch-thick, pressure-treated plywood flooring over the floor structure and fasten it with two-and-a-half-inch deck screws spaced six to eight inches apart.

Organize the Walls

The construction of the walls of this shed is similar to that of most full-size residences. According to the designs, the building’s perimeter is made up of 2-by-4 top and bottom plates that stretch horizontally, with vertical studs delineating the wall surfaces. Observe how the two shorter walls, which are connected at the corners by 3-1/2-inch deck screws and have overlapping top plates, fit within the two longer ones.

The first step in building each wall’s framing is to temporarily screw a pair of 2 by 4 top and bottom plates together face to face. Then, place the pair on their edges on the plywood floor. Next, indicate where the wall studs will be located on the margins of these two 2-by-4s, leaving a 24-inch gap between the centers of each stud. The designs include precise wall layouts as well as instructions on how to frame window and door openings. The shed is ideal for employing repurposed windows and doors, which can be any size; however, the designs do not provide specifications for these openings. Doors may be hinged straight into the shed’s basic structure, but window attachment requires some adjustments.

It is possible to securely install a salvaged wooden sash into the shed frame, but exercise caution—fixed windows draw and hold flies, creating a filthy, buzzing mess. I advise utilizing a different kind of window. If so, you’ll need to make a rough window frame opening that is big enough to fit the complete window unit, plus an additional half-inch for adjustability on the top, bottom, and sides.

After separating the 2-by-4 plates, place them on the floor approximately 8 feet apart, and hammer 92-1/2-inch-long studs in between.

After building one long wall, raise it upright with assistance and secure the bottom wall plate to the floor using 4-inch deck screws, making sure the screws go into the 2-by-6 floor frame’s edge. Install deck screws to secure the assembled walls and lift them, making sure they are plumb in the corners. Overlap the corners of the first layer of wall plates with the second layer. Sheathing should be used to finish the walls.

Siding made of exterior-grade plywood is a simple and affordable option. It takes any type of paint or stain and has vertical grooves for decorating. Whichever method you choose, avoid the hassle of having to trim window openings before applying sheathing. Rather, cover the walls with sheathing from the outside in a full layer, and then use a reciprocating saw or chain saw to cut the window and door openings from the inside out, following the framed openings.

Construct the Roof

Using steel connection plates designed specifically for this purpose is the easiest method to construct a roof frame for a tiny shed. By using this gear, you may build a sturdy roof without having to make intricate cuts on the rafters. See the drawings for cutting the 2-by-4 rafters at 30-degree angles. Next, use steel plates (peak brackets) and screws to join the rafters together on top of the structure.

Cut two triangle pieces of wall sheathing to enclose the gable ends after the rafters are in place. Nail them to the top of the wall and the faces of the outermost rafters.

Take note of the gaps between the rafters and how the roof structure rests on top of the walls. These will allow rats, insects, and birds to enter your shed if you leave them open. Now, before the roof sheathing is installed, is the ideal moment to fill the voids between rafters. In order to fit 2-by-6 blocks into each spot, cut it. If you have access to a table saw, slant the block tops to fit the slope of the roof. Screws are used to secure the blocks to the top plate.

A roof overhang on the triangular front and rear ends of the structure enhances the appearance of even the smallest shed. Therefore, extend the roof structure by screwing three rafter supports to each end rafter before covering the roof with half-inch plywood. Then, secure the overhanging rafters to those supports.

Standing solidly on a scaffold makes handling rafters, roof sheathing, and shingles much safer than balancing on a ladder. When building the roof, set up the scaffolding within the shed and then transfer it outside to serve as a shingling platform close to the eaves.

In addition to being incredibly durable and affordable, DIY sheds allow you to be creative. You’ll wonder why anyone would ever do it any other way until you build one for yourself.

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